Guides and answers

Concrete or screed of at least B15 (M200) with compressive strength from 20 MPa, at least 28 days old, pull-off strength from 1.5 MPa and moisture up to 4 % by mass. It must be flat, dry and free of dust, oil, cement laitance and old coatings, with cracks and cavities repaired. Details in preparing a concrete substrate.

Yes, if the concrete is sound. Clean it, grind it, repair all cracks and unevenness and prime it; otherwise the coating will not bond.

Shot-blast the topping first. It is a non-absorbent surface, and without blasting no coating bonds to it reliably.

Yes. Grind the tiles with diamond cups, tap them with a mallet and remove hollow ones, vacuum, prime with Teping R 1155 Primer 40 and fill the gaps flush with Floor 205 Filler or Primer 100 with quartz sand. The floor can be poured the next day.

Yes. Degrease the steel, prime it with Teping R 1155, which gives the highest adhesion to metal, broadcast sand and then pour the floor.

Self-levelling floors flow down a slope. Form the slope from a semi-dry mix of resin and quartz sand laid between screed rails, grind it after curing and seal it with thin coats applied with a flat trowel.

Epoxy floors are harder and more resistant to chemicals and wear, but less elastic and can crack under sharp temperature swings. Polyurethane floors are more flexible, withstand impact, vibration and frost, and suit substrates prone to cracking. See choosing a floor coating.

Epoxy floors with quartz filler are the most wear-resistant choice, for example the anti-slip epoxy floor. Polyurethane floors suit garages with a moving substrate and frost, and polyurethane-cement floors suit car parks with de-icing salts and washing.

On average 2 to 5 days, including substrate preparation, the coats and curing. Add the waiting time before full service.

At +20 °C you can walk on it after 24 hours, use it fully after 7 days, and it reaches full strength after 28 days. In the cold each step takes longer.

1.5–2 mm for foot traffic, 2–3 mm for industrial vehicle traffic, 3–5 mm for very heavy loads. Teping Floor 205 C is not laid thinner than 1.5 mm: a thinner coat loses its decorative look and wear resistance.

Yes. Quartz sand is broadcast into the coat or added to the mix, giving a rough surface. See the anti-slip epoxy, polyurethane and paint systems.

Yes: floors with coloured flakes under a varnish, 3D floors and coloured quartz floors. For a "beach" effect, an image printed on self-adhesive vinyl or real stones laid on the floor are cast in clear Teping Floor 205 Clear 3D.

Yes, they suit kitchens, bathrooms and hallways. Teping Floor 205 C and Floor 205 Clear 3D are safe in service and emit no harmful substances. Floor 205 C can also be laid over underfloor heating.

With correct installation and care, epoxy and polyurethane floors last 10 to 20 years, depending on the type of coating and the conditions of use.

Go over the fresh coat with a spiked roller: 7–10 minutes after pouring for epoxy, 5–7 minutes for polyurethane. Bubbles are more likely on a cold substrate and with cold components.

In theory yes, but for a good result with two-component systems professionals are recommended. In any case make a test area of at least 2 m² and follow the product instruction.

Yes. Grind the old surface, prime it to ensure adhesion, then apply the new decorative or protective coat.

An epoxy primer does: it forms a layer that water does not pass through. A polyurethane primer protects only partly.

Only temporarily: a primer is not resistant enough to abrasion.

0.2–0.4 kg/⁠m² per coat, depending on how absorbent the concrete is: dense concrete takes less, porous concrete more.

No. Wait until the primer has fully dried, otherwise the adhesion will be poor.

Sand improves adhesion and strength of the coating, and on slopes it stops the next coat from running.

An epoxy primer has high adhesion and chemical resistance and penetrates deep into concrete, which makes it the usual choice for a garage floor. A polyurethane primer is more elastic and resists UV light, so it suits outdoor work, where epoxy is not recommended. An epoxy primer can be overcoated with a polyurethane paint.

The two-component polyurethane Teping Floor 205 PU Enamel 60. It is lightfast, does not fade in the sun and does not crack with temperature swings. It smells during application, but not once it is dry.

Self-levelling floors and epoxy paints need air above +10 °C and a substrate 3 °C above the dew point. Below +5 °C use single-component moisture-curing polyurethanes such as Teping PU Primer 1K and Teping PU Enamel 1K.

Sport Classic of black rubber crumb is the reliable budget option. Sport EPDM gives bright colours and withstands freeze-thaw cycles. Sport Combi combines a black crumb shock pad with a coloured EPDM top: bright and cost-effective.

Yes. Asphalt and concrete are cleaned and primed with the binder. A ground base needs a compacted build-up of sand, crushed stone and screenings, good drainage and geotextile under the surface.

Foot traffic is possible after 24 hours, the surface is fully dry after 72 hours. Vehicles need 3–5 days.

Teping AD RC takes 15–25 % of the crumb mass, depending on the crumb size. For 10 mm of rubber crumb surface that is about 7 kg of crumb and 1.6 kg of binder per square metre.

Closed-cell rigid foam has the lower thermal conductivity: up to 0.035 W/(m·K) for Teping Spray 20-60 W. Open-cell foam lets more water vapour through: Teping Spray 10, up to 0.045 W/(m·K).

No more than 25 mm per pass, after a first thin coat of 3–5 mm; usually 3–4 passes. Each pass goes on only when the previous one has risen and cooled to 40 °C.

Yes, at ambient temperatures from −5 °C, with components heated to 45–50 °C. The surface must be dry and free of condensation, and spraying stops in rain.

Yes. A clean, dry substrate is treated with Teping Decor Primer: it binds dust and evens out absorbency so the colour comes out uniform. Without a primer, the first coat of paint may be thinned with water by up to 15 %.

Concrete after 28 days at the earliest, cement and cement-lime plasters and fillers after 14 days, cement decorative plasters after 7 days.

Two coats by brush, roller or spray at +5 … +30 °C and humidity up to 80 %, the second after 6 hours at the earliest. To avoid shade differences, work wet on wet and paint one surface with paint from one batch.

The film of Teping Decor AS dissipates static charge, but carries it away only when earthed: a copper tape or anchors connected to the building’s earthing bar run along the perimeter of the painted surface.

A sound, dry substrate (moisture up to 5 %) free of dust, oil and laitance: concrete at least 1–3 months old, sand-cement screed at least 28 days, compressive strength from 15 to 25 MPa depending on the mix. An absorbent substrate is primed in two coats 2–3 hours apart.

Yes: Teping Cem Universal and Teping Cem M serve as a base for resin coatings. Before an impermeable coating, Cem Universal needs 24 hours at up to 15 mm and 48 hours at up to 30 mm; always check the moisture first.

Yes. Movement and shrinkage joints of the substrate are repeated in the floor; without them, the floor is cut into bays of up to 6 × 6 m (about 6 × 3 m for Cem M) 24–48 hours after laying and filled with polyurethane sealant after 7–10 days.

A spark-free one: the cement Teping Cem 40 20–100 mm thick or the magnesia Teping Cem M 5–25 mm thick. Cem M is also antistatic: it is laid over the conductive Teping NG Primer AS connected to the earthing circuit.